Like all other MST kits, the superb precision in parts manufacturing and a perfect English Manual, make this build a total joy! I decided to run the Independent Front Suspension (IFS) suspension from the get go, so for me, the front shock tower came off right away. This is completely a personal choice, I had a very good experience with IFS in a previous build so why not try it in here.
I also locked the Ball Diff right away, and if you decide to keep using the plastic Joint Set, make sure to use Loctide. What I did was get the XXX Aluminum Spool unit, that fits the RRX perfectly, and in my opinion is an upgrade well worth the money.
I was very impressed with how easy it was to remove the Steering System, just remove all linkages and the two screws from the bottom that the whole assembly will come off. Same thing with the Rear Diff Case, if done correctly, it’s very easy to remove the whole assembly all at once.
I’m going to separate this section in three parts;
1- Version 1 IFS: the geometry is all per manual, stock springs (w/ 5 turns on tensioner), 30 weight oil in front and rear, stock shock pistons (3 holes)
Speed is no problem! But the grip in the front felt weak, driving on a short course was hard, since the reactions were slow. Transitions have to be initiated a lot sooner and the weight shift management has to be perfect, no room for error, easy to understeer.
2- Version 2 IFS: Decided to change the front shock piston to a 6 hole, I wanted more bounce, the 3 hole one was making it very draggy. The front shock oil got changed to a 20 weight also, kept the rear oil the same (30w) but changed the spring to a stiffer one.
This really helped the lack of grip in the front, I could start pushing the car more, I could get closer doing a tandem and it was taking tight corners better too.
3- Monoshock: the extensions I used for this mod come from Carb-D, they are made of carbon fiber and have multiple hole options for shock positioning. I had to put spacers in between the extension and the suspension arm, otherwise they won’t clear the bulckheads when they move. Since this kind of shock assembly is naturally softer, I went with a stiffer spring than stock. Now I’m being able to get the proper chassis roll in the front and finally feel a much better response from my steering. I can get more aggressive on transitions and be able to drive with more angle, confident on the grip I’m feeling. Also I believe that the monoshock is allowing the car to truly react to the rake setting of the chassis.
It comes very well-tuned out of the box, the stock slide rack and linkage positions will give you a very good steering angle and Ackerman. I decided to install the curved slide rack because I believe it offers a better movement to the system, and takes some load out of the servo. The use of a curved slide rack makes its motion behave more like steering wipers (giving a new dimension to Ackerman tuning) while having the benefit of stability. This special steering system enables the trailing knuckle not being hit by the end of the rack, enabling more clearance as it slides. ESC:
Acuvance Tachyon Ayria (w/ Acuvance Boost cap) and a Luxon 8.5 BS. I started with a 30T pinion. My first ESC setting was really mild, nothing crazy, and still after the first run things got a little too hot. Decided to go down to 27T because I planned on trying a more advanced ESC setting, w/ turbo, boost, lower timing, stronger brakes, etc.. which would already bring an extra load to the system. I can now say I’m much closer to having the perfect traction balance, the car can follow a slow leader with very smooth control, at the same time that it could punch forward to catch up or just plain drive in a much faster pace, if needed, without losing style and precision. Plus all temperatures are ideal now.
RADIO, RECEIVER, SERVO and GYRO:
My radio of choice is the Sanwa MT4s, it has the same specs of the M12S, but with a much more affordable price. The way I like to describe it is “telepathic”, the feeling of being connected to the car, that this radio gives is amazing, coupled with the Sanwa receiver and servo, you will experience a whole different level of control. There is saying “you don’t know how poisoned you are, until you are completely pure”, and this is definitely the case if you never tried Sanwa. The almost zero latency of this radio makes the input virtually instantaneous, and you can only feel the difference when you have it in your hands.
The receiver I chose is the RX482, the fact it doesn’t have an antenna makes it so much easier to install, you can pretty much put anywhere. They have a Bind button, so you don’t have to deal with plugs for the bidding procedure, it’s such a nice feature. It also has all the Sanwa special features, SRS (super response receiver) and SSL (sanwa synchronized link).
The servo I went with is the SDX801 low profile digital. I chose this one after seeing some really good reviews about it, not cheap but also not too expensive either, the specs are ideal in my opinion:
- Speed: 0.08sec/ 60deg (at 6.0V)
- Torque: 6.4kg/cm (at 6.0V)
- Size: 40.5 x 21 x 26.5mm
- Ball Bearing: Dual Ball Bearing
- Metal Gear: Full Metal Gear
- Coreless Motor
- Weight: 50g
The Gyro is the stock LSD2.0s, it’s working really well with this servo, very smooth through the whole range of motions. Make sure you do the initial setup with the unit, set the gain port to the desired compensation and enjoy the ride! Honestly there’s nothing more than a gyro could do to help the driving, than what this guy does.
I really hope this helps a little with choosing your setup, always remembering that everything here is my personal view, make your research before you make a decision, I can always help with any questions, contact me at Manny BlackStar on facebook. Happy sliding!!